H | anoi |
Sleepy Capital Awakening: Feb, 2000 |
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Hanoi
Cambodia 2001 |
We flew from Shenzhen, China to Hanoi, with plans to return there. After a quick pickup at the airport and a swift ride through the city we arrived near sundown and checked into our hotel. From there we made our first outing on foot and got a first taste of the city and an "in-your-face" introduction to its noise and infinite and never ending supply of motor bikes and pedal bikes. We spent a very nice five days and six nights in Hanoi soaking up the atmosphere and doing a bit of bicyling. The first job was always to check the tires. Our hotel had been booked in advance from Hong Kong and picked out of Lonely Planet. We liked it quite a bit. For our $30 we got two large rooms, one filled with a king-size bed, the other with some uncomfortable-looking traditional Chinese-style furniture. But for us the joy of it was that one of us (always Gerry) could sit up reading late at night without disturbing the other of us (always Jan). The hotel pleased us so much that we came back a year later on our second visit. This time however, by astute bargaining on Jan's part we got the room for $20! Cycling Around Hanoi
Once we had kicked the tires of our rental bicycles, off we would go to explore the highways and the byways of the city. Riding allowed us to venture further afield but also exposed us to the chaos that is Hanoi traffic. You will notice that their are no gears. Luckily there are just about no hills either. The narrow alleyways that linked broader streets were not only thoroughfares for both bicyles and mopeds but could also be a place of business or where domestic chores were done, so you had to keep your wits about you. This alley was the entry to a small neighborhood named on the ceremonial entry gate. Chia Lien Phai was the name and it probably referred to a temple that anchored the neighborhood.
We dubbed this mausoleum to Ho Chi Minh the ugliest piece of architecture in Vietnam. And that, we feel is just as it should be because this man and his cohorts subjected their people to an ugly regime for more than fifteen years.
Uncle Ho was very happy to welcome us to his museum and final resting place. He is always referred to in this familiar way in almost all propaganda. Undoubtedly intentionally to mask his crimes.
Not every street is noisy all the time. This one, with its trees and width seemed very peaceful and pleasant when we came across it.
Work is done right on the street. One group that we spied was staining furnitures. When they spied us — or was it our cameras — they gave a very friendly greeting. Working in the open was certainly better for their health given that they had no masks or other protection against the harsh chemicals they were using. The Temple of LiteratureBut the same calm atmosphere as always pervaded the famous Temple of Literature. We spent a couple of hours here trying to imagine life in the time of the Vietnamese Emperors. Inside the Temple of Literature, all is ...
opulence...
grandeur...
history...
rite...
and understated elegance. Meanwhile, Back in the Real World
When we tired of being tourists, we repaired to Brothers Cafe for al fresco dining, Vietnamese style.
At night we attended a performance of the world famous Water Puppets. |