EAST of JOSEPHOV
NORTH of OLD TOWN
The north side of Josephov is defined by the Vltava River; the area east of Josephov, south of the Vltava, and
north of the Old Town square is a mixture of modern and old buildings.
Among them is a large, 10 or 12 story hotel
tower, the International, I think, built in the "International" or plain and unadorned style.
It is a relic of the sixties or seventies which does not fit in with the older, pre 19th-century Prague.
But here and there among these streets there are jewels that makes it worth walking through, if time allows.
To the east of Old Town the land rises into pleasant hills; on the top of them is a large, quite obvious TV Tower.
On the lower slopes of the hills, running north-south are the main railroad tracks;
south east of the Old Town Square is the main train station.
We arrived there from Poland and were met by a man
who found an apartment for us on the north-west side of town.
A bit to the north of the train station is the bus
station.
There we left Prague after a fine five days, taking an overnight bus to England.
Now let's get to the things worth seeing: the Powder Tower, the Art Nouveau auditorium, and the National Museum.
One way to see the north-east is to start in Josephov and walk clockwise in a sort of semi-circle.
If you do this you will start by seeing a nice square with a church.
After going somewhat farther east you might be on a route through a small street that takes you
past the Hotel Casa Marcello.
When we walked by it we immediately said that it was a place where
we would like to stay.
It costs at the top end of the scale, so we thought maybe someday when we
made a return trip we would stay there.
(On the other hand, we had absolutely no desire to stay
in the "International" hotel.)
I wish I could remember the story of this tower, but I can't.
But don't miss seeing it.
If you don't have
time for the "east" walk, just make a quick jaunt over from Old Town Square and back.
The connecting
streets are a pleasure to pass through.
This building is well worth an inspection.
Check out the highly decorated interior.
And check out the offerings.
Maybe you'll find an event you want to attend, although they are a bit pricey.
From here it is an easy walk to the south-east end of Wenceslas Square.
If you have done things in another
order and have just seen Wenceslas Square you can easily walk over to the theatre and Powder Tower.
WENCESLAS SQUARE
(VACLAVSKE NAMESTI)
When thinking about Wenceslas Square don't be too literal.
It is not square at all, but rather a broad
avenue about 4/10 miles (700 meters) long.
Over the years it has had many changes.
Once upon a time people used horses for real work.
And, as should be obvious, they bought and sold them.
In that day and age the Horse Market was located here.
As you visit it, imagine a lot of mud, straw, and horse droppings.
With modernization, and as everything got up to date in Kansas City, so did it in Prague.
Horses and
horse market went, and trams were laid down the middle of the avenue.
And then trams went, a greenway was put down the center, and the "square" took its appearance of today.
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From the steps of the National Museum you get a look down almost the entire length of the square.
At the top end is the statue of King Wenceslas on horse back.
As Jan remembers it, when she visited
in 1968 the square looked closer to a horse market than an upmarket for yuppies.
Not really,
but it certainly didn't have the wealth and elegance on display that it does now.
It was rather
bare, and grim looking, although part of that may have been the season (November).
If you can, imagine the square filled with nearly half a million people, all protesting the Soviet
forced ending of the Prague Spring.
This is where it happened.
Briefly, the history is as follows:
In January, 1968 Alexander Dubcek became General Secretary (head) of the Czechoslovakian Communist Party.
Rather quickly he put into place ideas that he had been developing for years.
These included almost
complete freedom of the press, something absolutely absent in all other eastern European and communist countries.
He was called to Moscow by Brezhnew and told to rein in things.
When he didn't, the USSR and its "allies"
(i.e.
satellites) sent masses of tanks and other forces into the country.
The peaceful opposition failed
and freedom was suppressed until the breakup of the Soviet Union and the Warsaw Pact in 1989-91.
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Outside the National Museum there is a statue that overlooks Wenceslas Square.
That is as close as we got
to the inside of the Museum.
Thus we can't evaluate how good or interesting the collection is.
These guys were part of a football team or something similiar.
I didn't talk to them but it was obvious
they were enjoying Wenceslas Square.
Not shown is the other side of their costume: each one had a plastic
sheet over his rear in the form and color of a bare ass.
Lining both sides are plenty of high priced and high quality shops.
Most hours of the day the
sidewalks team with people.
Most of them are tourists, but a few are shills trying to gyp tourists.
One of their games is to offer to change money at a particularly good rate and then give a
worthless currency that appears to be, but is not Czech money.
The Story of Saint Wenceslas (Svatý Václav)
Nearly every English speaker has heard of "Good King Wenceslas" because of the popular
19th century Christmas carol.
Although there have been many Czech/Bohemian kings with this name, he was the first,
and the one for whom Wenceslas Square is named.
He was born near Prague about 907 and died in Stará Boleslav, Bohemia, in 929.
In his brief life, of
only 22 years, he obviously impressed himself on his country as he became
the patron saint of Bohemia and Moravia,
Wenceslas was raised a Christian by his grandmother St.
Ludmila, but his ambitious mother, Drahomíra (Dragomir), a pagan, had Ludmila murdered and acted as regent herself until Wenceslas came of age in 924 or 925.
Her court intrigues and the wishes of the people to end the conflicts between Christian and non-Christian factions in Bohemia led Wenceslas to take the reins of government.
As Duke he was pious, reportedly taking the vow of virginity, and encouraged the work of German missionary priests in the Christianization of Bohemia.
His zeal in spreading Christianity, however, antagonized his non-Christian opponents.
Faced with German invasions in 929, Wenceslas submitted to the German king Henry I the Fowler.
His submission provoked some of the nobles to conspire against him, and they prompted his younger brother, Boleslav (Boleslaus), to murder him.
Waylaid by Boleslav en route to mass, Wenceslas was killed at the church door.
Frightened by the reports of miracles occurring at Wenceslas' tomb, Boleslav had his remains transferred in 932 to the Church of St.
Vitus, Prague, which became a great pilgrimage site during the medieval period.
Wenceslas was regarded as Bohemia's patron saint almost immediately after his assassination.
VYSEHRAD
It is hard to define when Prague was first settled, but it seems accepted that the right bank castle,
Vysehrad was built before the left bank castle-church compound, Hradcany.
But once the powers that be had moved to Hradcany the 9th century Vysehrad became something of a backwater.
Today it is a park that contains a cemetery where many of Bohemia and Moravia's greats are buried.
There is a rather beautiful church dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul.
Because of its site on a commanding hill (i.e.
military site) above the Vltava it has beautiful views.
Opposite the church there is a nice restaurant at which we ate.
On your third or fourth day, if the weather is fine, spend an afternoon at Vysehrad.
You can get there by
walking from the Old Town, but it would be better to take a taxi or tram to get you closer.
Arrive in time
for lunch at the restaurant overlooking the river.
Then tour the cemetery.
Afterwards walk down the hill
into the non-tourist area at the bottom of the hill.
Then, if time and weather allow, walk along the Vltava
north into the Old Town.
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ALONG THE VLTAVA
There are many beautiful buildings along the Vltava waterfront, but in Jan's opinion the Frank Gehry building is not one of them.
Gerry thought it interesting, but Jan found it was just an ugly intrusion among all of the lovely period buildings around it.
It would have been better to build it in a modern suburb as a relief and contrast to all of those ugly sixties buildings that abound in such places, but not here amongst all this beauty.
If you do walk along the river bank you'll also pass the Czech National Theater.
The ornate building was constructed between 1868 and 1881, primarily with funds from private citizens.
Shortly after the first performance in the theater, a fire destroyed much of the building.
After the fire, however, Czechs demonstrated support for a national theater once again, raising sufficient funds to rebuild the theater within two years.
Czech composer Bedrich Smetana’s Libuse, an opera about a legendary Slavic princess, opened the inaugural season in the newly rebuilt theater.
The opera, composed for the occasion, concludes with the princess Libuse’s prophecy: "My dear Czech nation will survive!"