Grand Canyon walk in sunset light see from West Rim walk

We first saw the Grand Canyon together in June of 1981, the year we drove from Red Bank to Los Angeles immediately prior to shipping out to Hong Kong for our four-year stint there. Believe it or not, we only spent 20 minutes at the world's premier tourist destination that first time. We were driving from Salt Lake City to Las Vegas and made a short (2 hours each way) detour to the North Rim of the canyon, just so that Jan could catch her first glimpse of it.

The glimpse was so short, she almost wondered if she had dreamed it. So in 1995 when a ski trip to Lake Tahoe had us changing planes in Phoenix, we looked at the map, saw how close Phoenix was to the Grand Canyon and added three days onto the trip just so we could spend time there. Our three days were spent at the South Rim and in late winter, when we were delighted to see the Canyon in the snow.

Day 1 — West Rim Trail

Our third, and most recent trip was much different from either of the other two. First, it was high summer and the park was much busier than previous times, although not as busy as it could be given that we found a place in a campground (albeit 20 miles from the village) with no difficulty whatsoever. Perhaps that was due to a lack of foreign visitors because of unease about the Iraq war. Or perhaps the majority of people know that it is just darned hot in Arizona in the middle of summer!

After selecting our campsite, pitching the tent, and eating a picnic lunch, we drive to Grand Canyon Village for a planned hike along the western rim trail. We park the car, collect water, suncream, hats, etc., etc. and set out to find the shuttle bus to Hermit's Rest which is now the only way other than shanks’s pony (walking) that you can get to the western rim trail. On our winter visit we had heard about plans to remove cars from parts of the park. The Hermit's Rest shuttle bus is one result of that plan. We stop at Bright Angel Lodge for bathrooms and more cold water (we are pretty constantly fighting dehydration) and learn that we could have a twin-bed cabin with a sink for only $50. We both agree we prefer our $10 campsite.

As an aside, we should mention that the critical item for us when camping is an air mattress. Long gone are the days when a thin mat is sufficient to cushion our bones. Another must have is a clean bathroom, but in general the facilities at national park campgrounds are just fine.

Rim Trail View

Rim Trail View

We find the bus easily and arrive just as it is about to depart, but by the time we cover the 12 or so stops to get to Hermit's Rest, the end of the line, it is already 5 p.m. Our hope is to walk the 8 miles back to the village before it gets dark, which we quickly realize will be 8 p.m. on Arizona Standard Time. [The Navajo reservation by contrast is on Daylight Savings Time and so there it doesn’t get dark until 9.]

The trail we plan to follow is called the Rim Trail because it mostly hugs the rim of the canyon, often teetering just above a 2 to 3,000 foot drop. It is not for the faint-hearted or vertigo-sufferers! It is still warm in the direct sunlight, but there is often a breeze too, so we aren’t uncomfortable. Our timing is a bit off though because we both want to stop so often. Jan wants just to stand and stare, while Gerry is busy taking both photos and video. We have brought our little binoculars and are really happy with the extra distance they add to our vision. The canyon is indescribably beautiful in the late afternoon sun. We get views of the river and rapids and endless canyons.

Colorado River 5000 ft below

Hidden deer

Red Canyon Wall

It takes us almost two hours to do the first mile, but gradually we do speed up a little bit as the second segment, 2.9 miles from Pima Point to the Abyss, sometimes winds away from the rim. On one such detour, Jan, who is in front, is called back suddenly by Gerry. She has walked right by a little deer that is sitting by the trail either too sick or too afraid to run away. We don’t disturb it beyond taking a few pictures and wonder whether there is any more we could or should do. We decide not and follow the trail back out to the rim.

We make it to the Abyss by 7:30. It has taken us 2.5 hours to do the first four miles and the sun is just setting. It hardly seems likely we’ll complete the walk before dark so we determine instead just to get to the next lookout, another mile away before 8 so that we can be sure to catch the last bus. We get there with time to spare and so complete five miles of the trail in three hours. Not bad considering we stopped to eat an apple along the way in addition to the many gawping stops we made. We take last lingering looks out into the void that is the Grand Canyon. We will certainly be back. Next time we'll complete our ambition of walking down to Phantom Ranch on the floor of the canyon and back.

We have to wait almost 20 minutes for the bus in the gathering darkness and strike up a conversation with two young Brits. We ask why they chose to come here and they explain that several years ago on TV they watched a program that described the 10 best places to visit. The Grand Canyon was number one on the list and so the decision was made. We agree that it is a sight not to be missed. By walking the rim trail you can get away from the crowds, find a quiet spot and just sit and wonder at the awesome grandeur of the place.

We were thankful when the bus did finally come and after a 15-minute ride we tumbled off the bus into complete darkness and stumbled another quarter mile to our car for the 25 mile drive back to our campground where we thankfully collapse in our tent.

Day 2 — East Rim Viewpoints

North Rim in Distance

Canyon Depths

Canyon Edge View

Canyon Depths

We are awake early as usual and get up planning to go back and finish the last three miles of the western rim trail today as well as take in all the viewpoints on the east rim.

But it is not to be. First Jan pulls a back muscle when putting a gallon jug of water that she has just filled back into the back of the car and not half an hour later Gerry does something even worse to his lower back while simply bending down to pick up one of our sleeping bags. Jan is uncomfortable, but Gerry is in great pain. It should be his turn to drive, but he is in no condition, so Jan is the driver.

Desert View Tower

Desert View Tower

Desert View Tower Painting

Desert View Tower Ares

We give up all thoughts of hiking today and instead limit ourselves to the viewpoints on the eastern rim. First is Desert View, closest to our campsite. We climb its watchtower and admire the art that decorates its interior. Outdoors we listen curiously to the remarks of our fellow tourists and detect French, German, and several eastern European accents. We'd like to talk to them all, but we also want to get our fill of the canyon on this our last morning.

Next is Tusayan with its archaeological remains and small museum. After our visit to "Indian Country" we are becoming familiar with the motifs of these ancient peoples but always find it moving to see the traces left by them in this harsh terrain.

Grandview is next, under restoration to its 1930's grandeur. Gerry wonders if his parents ever stayed here back in the forties and fifties when it was still a hotel. Another question never asked and so never to be answered.

And finally and perhaps best of all to Yavapai Point where we shivered and groaned in the cold to watch the sunrise over the canyon back in March of 1997. We relearn the names of the most famous formations on that chilly morning and wonder not only at the canyon itself but at the spectacle of all of the other people some from worlds away come to admire too. It is here that we see a young lady lose her grip momentarily and see her camera sail into the abyss of the canyon. She doesn't know whether to be sad at the loss or happy that she is not the one over the edge.

Canyon Perspective