S

an Antonio

 

April 13-16, 2003






USA flag



We spent only three days in San Antonio, concentrated on seeing the Alamo, the other four Spanish Missions, and the area around the Riverwalk. We liked it a lot. We often have strong reactions to places we visit and are never quite sure what the origins of the feelings are. In the case of San Antonio, perhaps it was the scale of the place, which felt small after Houston, or the friendly people, or maybe just the price to quality ratio in hotels and restaurants that we experienced. Or perhaps it was the fact that we had near perfect weather, no longer needing to worry about sweaters and being able to swim in unheated outdoor pools. It's hard to say even in retrospect, but like it we did.

On our first evening there, we drive straight to downtown and hunt around for some free parking, which we find. Then alk over to the Alamo and after checking out the famous facade of the old mission-building front (it had closed for the day) we get help from a security guard and directions to a reasonable restaurant. We are very happy when we get there to find that it is on the Paseo del Rio or Riverwalk. The San Antonio river that runs through the center of town has been channelized for flood-control purposes and both sides of the channel for the equivalent of about three blocks are lined with bars and restaurants. There is lots of greenery and the channel weaves and bends with side pools and side-channels, spanned by bridges large and small it really is very delightful. We ate at the Casa Rio at the water’s edge and enjoyed watching the big flat-bottomed tourist barges that ply the river in their dozens.

After a supper of taco salad and enchiladas we walked up and down the river walk like so many others watching the diners watch us. Then it was time to walk back to the car and head back to the hotel, very satisfied with our evening.

The next day we visited the Alamo, once a mission, then a fort, and only saved for posterity by some determined San Antonians.We spent a very interesting couple of hours learning all about the failed defense of the Alamo, where about 200 Texians and Tejanos (Anglo and Mexican residents, respectively, of the Spanish state of Texas) died along with about 2,000 Spanish-Mexican troops. Gerry wished they could have devoted a little space to the 2,000 Mexicans who died there.

For lunch we headed back to the Riverwalk and the Casa Rio and shared a plate of fajitas. From there we walked towards the Market and en route we found the old Governor’s Palace and enjoyed a pleasant hour admiring the Spanish style single-story building, with beamed ceilings, whitewashed adobe walls, and heavy dark, carved wood furniture. Only the walls of the building are original, and although the restoration is said to be very authentic, the furnishings are not. Nevertheless the furnishings themselves are quite remarkable and most beautiful. Most memorable are the carved wooden brazier-holders and a lovely 17th-century bed with turned rails and posts.

The next day we spent touring the area's Spanish missions and then left San Antonio early the following morning and headed for Mexico, crossing the border at Laredo.




Updated August 8, 2003