E

phesus

 

May 4, 2002













Ephesus, one of the 12 cities of Ionia (an ancient Greek district on the western coast of Asia Minor), located near modern Izmir, Turkey.. is a port city at the mouth of the Cayster (modern Küçükmenderes) River, it was a major departure point for trade routes into Asia Minor. Known in antiquity for its sacred shrines, notably a famous temple (one of the Seven Wonders of the World) to the goddess Artemis, or Diana, the city was also an important center of early Christianity.

Probably founded in the 11th century bc by Ionian Greeks, Ephesus was conquered by the Cimmerians in the 7th century bc; by Croesus, king of Lydia, in the 6th century; and soon after, by Cyrus the Great, king of Persia. Later it was a tributary of Athens, but it sided with Sparta against Athens in the Peloponnesian War (431-404 bc). Sparta ceded it to the Persians, who were driven out by Alexander the Great in 333 bc. Under this Macedonian rule Ephesus flourished, and it was briefly renamed Arsinoë. The city passed to Roman rule in 189 bc and remained an important commercial center. St. Paul established a Christian congregation in Ephesus in the 1st century ad, and it was the site of the third general council of the Christian church, which condemned the Nestorian heresy, in 431.

Having been destroyed by the Goths in 262, Ephesus, although rebuilt, never regained its former splendor. Under the Byzantine Empire it declined, and its harbor silted up; it was abandoned in the 14th century.

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The Large Theater

This wonderful theater is only one of two at the site, which immediately gives you some idea of the extent of Ephesus, surely the most famous Graeco-Roman site in Turkey. Most tourgroups get here at the end of their tour having walked downhill through the site. We, of course, were on our own and so did things in reverse order. It was partly out of convenience because the local dolmus passed very nearby the lower entrance. But also it was intended to have as much time as possible without the large bus tours that come from the coastal resorts like Kusadasi on a day trip.

The front facade of the library of Ephesus is one of the best-known postcard views of Ephesus. Next door to the library is a newly opened part of the site, a series of homes of richer residents. For us, however, the additional entry fee that was charged was too rich also. We had already paid $10 each for entry and for this they wanted an additonal $25. As good capitalists we understand that price is really the only efficient way to ration entry to a fragile site which we suppose this to be. Perhaps on a return visit we will think it worth while to pay the extra money but on this our first visit we found so much to admire and absorb that we didn't feel the loss at all.

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The Library Facade
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Main Street

Here you can see the main street along which tourists stroll to admire the remains of this remarkable city. We were suitably impressed, but as always wished we didn't have to share the magic with quite so many others. Even though we got to the site before the large tourgroups that come from Kusadasi and entered at the opposite end from them,we also lingered much longer than they did and so were still there when they thronged the place.

But as you can see by the time we got to the far end and to the area near the second theater, the crowds had thinned dramatically and we finished the day as we had begun it in relative peace and tranquility.

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Near Small Theater
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Winning Hearts and Minds?

The group of students that Jan is talking to approached us about halfway through our tour. They were studying international business in Istanbul and were on a weekend outing to Ephesus. We talked politics and although the exact topic no longer comes to mind, they were certainly convinced that the U.S. was doing something unfair to Turkey and/or muslims. We gently but insistently defended the U.S. and they politely listened and were not convinced.

For more information see: http://www.kusadasi.com/ephesus.html




Updated September 9, 2004